Week 3

WEEK 3  |  PROPERTIES OF HAIR AND SCALP

Student Reading Guide

Session Length: 60 minutes

Topic: Properties of hair and scalp, client consultation, hair and scalp analysis, and shampooing technique

Learning Objectives

By the end of this session, you will be able to:

• Lead a client consultation that identifies hair type, scalp condition, and service goals prior to a haircut

• Describe the composition of the hair shaft and the function of each layer

• Identify at least five common scalp disorders and determine which conditions require a referral rather than a service

• Perform a systematic hair and scalp analysis using visual and tactile methods

• Demonstrate proper shampooing technique, including product selection, water temperature, and massage movement

1. Conducting an Effective Client Consultation for a Haircut

A consultation establishes the foundation for a successful service and protects both the client and the barber from misaligned expectations.

Opening the Consultation

• Greet the client and seat the client comfortably

• Review the client's service history, where available

Key Questions to Ask

• Desired length and style

• Maintenance routine at home

• Lifestyle considerations

• Prior chemical services

• Known scalp sensitivities or allergies

Visual and Tactile Assessment

• Observe head shape, growth patterns, hair density, and texture while the client is speaking

Setting Expectations

• Confirm the plan verbally before the first cut

• Note any limitations the hair or scalp condition places on the requested style

Documentation

• Record findings on the client's digital profile for reference at future appointments

2. Composition of Hair and Common Scalp Disorders

Hair is composed primarily of keratin, a fibrous structural protein, and grows from follicles embedded in the scalp.

Hair Shaft Layers

• Cuticle: the outermost layer, formed of overlapping scale-like cells that protect the inner hair shaft and determine shine and smoothness

• Cortex: the middle layer, responsible for strength, elasticity, and natural colour, and containing the majority of the hair's structural protein

• Medulla: the innermost layer, present in coarser hair types and largely absent in fine hair

The hair growth cycle consists of three phases: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest and shedding). Understanding this cycle allows a barber to set realistic expectations regarding regrowth timelines.

Common Scalp Disorders

• Dandruff (pityriasis capitis): flaking of the scalp associated with dryness or fungal overgrowth

• Seborrheic dermatitis: inflamed, greasy, scaling patches on the scalp

• Psoriasis: thick, silvery scaling patches, often with defined borders

• Tinea capitis (ringworm): a contagious fungal infection requiring referral and service refusal

• Folliculitis: inflammation or infection of the hair follicles, often appearing as small red bumps

• Pseudofolliculitis barbae: ingrown hairs common in curlier hair types, most often affecting the beard and neckline

• Alopecia: hair loss, which may be patchy, diffuse, or pattern-based, and may stem from genetic, medical, or traction-related causes

A barber is not a medical professional and does not diagnose. Any condition suspected to be contagious, infectious, or medically significant warrants a respectful referral to a physician or dermatologist rather than continuation of the service.

3. Analyzing Client Hair and Scalp Before Starting a Haircut

A thorough analysis, performed after the consultation and prior to cutting, confirms the information gathered verbally and reveals conditions the client may not have mentioned.

• Visual inspection: check for even scalp tone, visible flaking, redness, lesions, or bald patches under good lighting

• Tactile inspection: run fingers through the hair and across the scalp to assess texture, density, oil level, and any tenderness

• Porosity test: take a strand between the fingers and slide toward the scalp; hair that feels rough or catches indicates raised cuticles and higher porosity

• Elasticity test: stretch a damp strand gently; hair that returns to its original length without breaking indicates healthy elasticity

• Growth pattern identification: note whorls, cowlicks, and double crowns, as these determine cutting direction and technique

Findings from this analysis directly inform tool selection, cutting technique, and product recommendations for the remainder of the service.

4. Review of Proper Shampooing Technique 

Shampooing prepares the hair and scalp for cutting, removes product buildup, and gives the barber a further opportunity to assess scalp condition.

• Water temperature: warm, never hot, to avoid scalp irritation and to keep the client comfortable

• Product selection: choose a shampoo suited to the client's hair type and scalp condition — for instance, a clarifying shampoo for buildup or a moisturizing formula for dry, coily textures

• Application technique: distribute shampoo evenly, then work through the hair using the pads of the fingers in circular, rotary movements, never the nails

• Massage movement: apply light effleurage strokes across the scalp to stimulate circulation during cleansing

• Rinsing: rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear of product

• Conditioning: apply conditioner primarily through the mid-lengths and ends, and rinse according to the product's recommended time

• Draping and hygiene: maintain a properly secured cape and towel throughout the process, and sanitize the shampoo bowl and station between clients

Supplementary Video Resource 

Title: "Beginner Barber Guide: Everything I Wish I Knew Starting Out"

Creator: 360Jeezy (Jarrod Stovall), barber and owner of Velocity Cutz Barbershop, Vacaville, California

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh2ScuZV7m4

Watch the segment on client communication and hair assessment before the in-class activity. This video reinforces the consultation and fundamentals content covered in this session, presented by a working Black barber with an established teaching channel.

Class Activity 

Consultation Recall

• Contribute one question you would ask a new client before touching the client's hair, to build a shared consultation checklist for the session

Mini-Lecture and Discussion

• Review the hair shaft layers and common scalp disorders alongside the sketch diagram in these notes

• Identify which conditions require a referral rather than a service

Video and Discussion

• Watch the assigned segment of the video noted above

• Discuss what the barber in the video did to build client trust, and what you would add to that approach

In-Class Consultation and Analysis

• Work with a another student, with one student acting as barber and one as client

• As the barber, conduct a full consultation, then perform a visual and tactile hair and scalp analysis on a mannequin head or willing partner

• Record findings on the scalp analysis checklist handout

• Switch roles with your partner halfway through the activity

Shampoo Technique Demonstration

• Observe the demonstration of proper shampooing technique at the shampoo bowl

• Note water temperature, product selection rationale, rotary finger movement, rinsing, and conditioner placement

Wrap-Up

• Submit your completed scalp analysis checklist online (WhatsApp or email).

• Answer the exit-ticket questions below.

Questions

1. Name the three layers of the hair shaft and one function of each layer

2. List two scalp conditions that would require a referral rather than a service

3. Describe one adjustment you would make to a shampoo technique for a client with a dry, sensitive scalp